Travelling through the Khyber Pass in the North West Frontier Province had been a dream of mine since I was a young boy. The intrigue and mystery that surrounded this area was revealed to me on 1st April 2005. I went from Peshawar to near the Afghanistan border in this 1920 steam train. After a sumptuous lunch at the Khyber Rifles Officers’ Mess I returned by bus through the winding pass road back to Peshawar, where I had afternoon tea with the State Governor at his palatial mansion. This day seven years ago was certainly an eye-opener to me, travelling with a heavily armed escort, passing through some incredible scenery, meeting some hardened smugglers, drinking tea with local tribesmen and having a journey of a lifetime through Taliban territory.